Can you mix zoysia and fescue

The plugs will create brown patches in the winter and green patches in the summer. But by mixing zoysia seed with, say, bluegrass seed, one can create an even-toned green turf in both winter and summer. This new zoysia is expected to be ready for the commercial market in four to six years. Not only will it obviate the expensive and arduous practice of planting individual plugs, it will offer improvements such as a longer growing period and more resistance to disease and drought.

To be called ''Belair'' zoysia, the new variety will permit practical use of zoysia farther into the northern zone. The breakthrough came when his researchers found a way to treat zoysia seed so that it would germinate--that is, sprout like other grass seeds. The problem was that an ''inhibitor'' in the seed prevented it from responding to light, which triggers the germination process. And have fun! I think the tree and the grass are different dilemmas.

I think your tree is one that has leaves that turn purple - there are crab apples with purple leaves - did you have a pink blossom in spring? The straw was probably used to keep the seedlings moist after seeding. Is your grass a St Augustine? Sometimes a bout of cold can turn the leaves purple - either they revert back or go yellow and die. If they start to die call the landscaping company. It is already unusual so worth giving them a call.

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I hate the look of a row of staked lights leading up a path, especially if they aren't staggered and are straight across from each other. Volt's sets which are cheaper than putting your own set together! I also will be using 4 spotlights. I suppose I could order a set in brass and get out the ole can of Rustoleum Core Aeration Advice Q. I have aerated and overseeded in the past, typically in September or October. This creates quite a bit of work removing and killing unwanted grass.

Thanks for the responses. Steve S. Related Stories. Is there anywhere this grass doesn't look great? Bonus: It outlasts other grasses in color and doesn't hog water. See how to work with greens with varying undertones for contrast and color in the garden and home.

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Turf isn't the only ground cover in town. Get a lush no-grass lawn with clover, moss and other easy-care plants. What grass is this? Something digging up my lawn 4. Overseeding in zone 8a: too late?

Superfund site South Carolina 1. United States. Others may choose to do something else with their lawns. If this is the route you wish to take, then your conversion to a cool-season lawn can begin now until mid-July.

The first step is to spray Roundup herbicide to remove the zoysia and any weedy vegetation that may be present due to thinning of the zoysia. Following the initial Roundup application, continue to monitor any regrowth every 10 to 14 days throughout the remainder of the summer. Spot spray with Roundup to kill any re-sprouting of zoysiagrass or weeds. Your lawn will be dead and ugly throughout the summer, but this is the necessary evil to convert a warm-season lawn to a cool-season lawn.

You need to be aware of the fact that warm-season grasses such as zoysiagrass spread by rhizomes root extension below the soil surface that will produce daughter plants and stolons surface runners that help this grass to spread and produce daughter plants. All nodes on these rhizomes and stolons need to be killed by Roundup in order to make a complete conversion.

Conversion from warm-season grasses to cool-season grasses is the most difficult conversion to make and no guarantees can be made. There is always the possibility that some zoysia can come back and contaminate your new cool-season lawn.

Therefore your final Roundup application should be made 7 days prior to seeding. Roundup has a 7-day reseeding interval specified on the label.

Prior to seeding, conduct a regular soil test to determine if any nutrient deficiencies are present as well as determining the soil pH click to see MU pub for more information on Soil Testing your Lawn. Several seed products are available from various venders that should work well for Missouri. See selections below. On the day of seeding, assuming that all zoysiagrass and other vegetation remained dead; we can begin by scalping down and bagging all dead leaf tissue.

Set your mower as close as possible lowest setting without stalling mower or cutting soil and remove dead tissue with a bagger or by raking up material. This should make soil visible and ready for power raking or tillage. Tilling with a garden tiller may create clumps and bring excess plant material to the surface that may require additional raking and removal. Power raking in 2 or 3 directions will create a seedbed, but may cause some need for additional raking as well.

The surface should be a fine powdery seedbed with little or no trash dead plant material remaining. Seed, fertilizer and lime may be added at this time. It is always recommended to apply these products at half rates in two directions to improve distribution. Fertilizer and lime rates are based on the soil test. Starter fertilizers are often recommended at time of seeding and the amounts can be figured into the recommendations from the soil test for P phosphorus and K potassium.

Starter fertilizers can be applied with the seed on the day of seeding or can be applied 7 to 10 days after seeding, when seedling grasses have emerged. This provides seedling grasses with nutrients when they need it the most.

Starter fertilizers only need an application rate of 0. You can also use other commercial seed mulches, making applications according to their labels. When seed and straw are in place, the only task remaining is proper watering to ensure good germination.

Light, frequent watering is the key to proper irrigation for seed establishment. Keep in mind that fescues require 7 to 10 days for seed germination, therefore light, frequent watering during this time is critical. Moist soil looks darker in color than a dry soil. Maintain moist looking conditions during this time; avoid puddles and runoff during seed establishment.

Once seedlings begin to emerge, you can begin to back off on watering as seedling roots grow deeper into the soil. Six weeks after seeding you can really begin to enjoy your new lawn. In three weeks, your lawn should be tall enough to mow.